Its surprising how much notice if you care to - or if circumstances conspire so. Ive been to Delhi scores of times over the past few years on work. And yet its safe to say that I observed a lot more about the city than what Ive had the opportunity to do in all those 'morning-evening' trips Ive made over the years.
I spent 4 days last week in New Delhi. For a start I discovered my hotel is in a part of Delhi referred to as Lutyens' Delhi. Lutyens' Delhi is more than a label (like a Paris arrondissment); it is a title. Lutyens' Delhi is a city within a city. Roads so wide you would scarcely believe it, well maintained pavements, open spaces with well manicured lawns, large trees lining the roads and no hawkers. For that matter one hardly sees people on the street in Lutyens' Delhi. You may if their (large and expensive) car breaks down.
Lutyens' Delhi houses some of the biggest egos in this country. Ministers, judges, senior civil servants, et al stay in large and exclusive houses and no attempts are spared to make the dwelling even more exclusive. The gates are solid, large and invariably taller than an average Indian to discourage a passer-by from peeking over. And if some more discouragement is required, it is available in the form of armed guards in full uniform sitting in their booth by the gate. Not content with keeping the riff raff on the road out, houses here have picket fences erected on the top of the compound walls to complete the islolation.
Buildings in Lutyens' Delhi rarely rise above the height of the trees. There are several laws in place including forbidding buildings to rise over a certain height since the entire area is a heritage area. The roads are named on Indian kings, politicians or prominent Indians such as Akbar, Aurangzeb, Kautilya, Sardar Patel etc. The whole of Lutyens' Delhi is green - seriously green; atleast in large part a result of prohibiting unbridled construction in this area. Check the pictures taken from my hotel window at 8 a.m. At the cost of sounding repetitive, the picture covers the Colaba equivalent of New Delhi.
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I spent 4 days last week in New Delhi. For a start I discovered my hotel is in a part of Delhi referred to as Lutyens' Delhi. Lutyens' Delhi is more than a label (like a Paris arrondissment); it is a title. Lutyens' Delhi is a city within a city. Roads so wide you would scarcely believe it, well maintained pavements, open spaces with well manicured lawns, large trees lining the roads and no hawkers. For that matter one hardly sees people on the street in Lutyens' Delhi. You may if their (large and expensive) car breaks down.
Lutyens' Delhi houses some of the biggest egos in this country. Ministers, judges, senior civil servants, et al stay in large and exclusive houses and no attempts are spared to make the dwelling even more exclusive. The gates are solid, large and invariably taller than an average Indian to discourage a passer-by from peeking over. And if some more discouragement is required, it is available in the form of armed guards in full uniform sitting in their booth by the gate. Not content with keeping the riff raff on the road out, houses here have picket fences erected on the top of the compound walls to complete the islolation.
Buildings in Lutyens' Delhi rarely rise above the height of the trees. There are several laws in place including forbidding buildings to rise over a certain height since the entire area is a heritage area. The roads are named on Indian kings, politicians or prominent Indians such as Akbar, Aurangzeb, Kautilya, Sardar Patel etc. The whole of Lutyens' Delhi is green - seriously green; atleast in large part a result of prohibiting unbridled construction in this area. Check the pictures taken from my hotel window at 8 a.m. At the cost of sounding repetitive, the picture covers the Colaba equivalent of New Delhi.
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Also pasting an extract of a write up on Lutyens' Delhi
"Sir Edwin Lutyen, British architect and visionary, was called upon to design a new capital for the British rulers of India. His brief was unambiguous, the new capital should match, if not improve upon, the grandeur and vastness of the world’s best cities, yet capitalise on the intricacy of the Indian architecture.2800 acres of land was carved outside the old city, away from the hustle and bustle of Chandni Chowk and the ramparts of the Red Fort.
"Sir Edwin Lutyen, British architect and visionary, was called upon to design a new capital for the British rulers of India. His brief was unambiguous, the new capital should match, if not improve upon, the grandeur and vastness of the world’s best cities, yet capitalise on the intricacy of the Indian architecture.2800 acres of land was carved outside the old city, away from the hustle and bustle of Chandni Chowk and the ramparts of the Red Fort.
With a free hand to draw as he pleased, Lutyen sketched out the flowing lines of New Delhi - the Rashtrapati Bhavan (President’s House), the Parliament, the magnificent drive or Raj Path from the President’s house to the India Gate and the Canopy beyond for the statue of King George."
PS: I would never move to Delhi, even Lutyens' Delhi. Not even to please a dying aunt.